So, I might as well start by being honest. Yes, the Taj Mahal was great. No, it was better than that, it was fan-bloody (in an arguably offensive Indian accent)-tastic. The ivory-white marble building was even more majestic than Google images made out and it is thoroughly recommended. This 17th-century Wonder of the World was commissioned by Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, and took over 20 years to finish completely. The foreigner fee of ₹1100 (£11.75) initially seemed very steep, but this was instantly forgotten about upon entrance to the complex. Entry to the mausoleum (for an additional ₹200 (£2.15)) is a must, despite the disrespectful and unflattering hair-flicking selfies taken in front of the most famous tomb in the world. Presenting our pre-bought online tickets from the Indian government website made entry seem fairly straightforward. A former travelling companion's underwhelming review ('a bit small') of the monument made me feel pessimistic before the visit, but my new travelling companion was left - similarly to me - with her breath taken away.
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| Taj Mahal |
Agra was quite an experience. The IRCTC website eventually - after hours of research - made the Indian Railways very easy to use. It gives you a comprehensive and fairly simple process for booking with an international card - as long as you say that you're Indian, otherwise, it's a bloody (in a slightly less offensive tone this time) nightmare. We had plenty of leg room, comfortable seats and an on-time service. Served by very friendly staff, we also received bottled water, a hot drink, a filling breakfast and a copy of the Hindustan Times in English - in which I read about the Indian national football team's first Asian Cup win since 1964! Hurrah! Thousands of people walked the tracks as the carriage full of foreigners (yes, this does include me) gazed out in awe at the beautiful and - at times - saddening views of the journey.
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| Indian Railways |
Off the train and the calmness was short-lived. Contrary to my family's recommendation, we walked to Agra Fort and rejected over 15 auto-rickshaws (motorised three-wheeler) with much difficulty in the process. This became increasingly frustrating as the drivers continued to persist and walk alongside us as the cost of their service rapidly decreased at a similar rate to the level of my patience. Finally, we were on our way, looking forward to a peaceful walk. There were no regrets of dismissing the ₹50 (53p) taxi offer as after a short 45-minute walk whilst dodging cars, receiving glaring looks and avoiding wandering hands from men on motorbikes, we were soon at the mesmerising Agra Fort.
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| Agra Fort |
We entered - what was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638 - through our gender-specific queues and shrugged off a persistent guide to be presented with an elegant fortress which seemed more like a palace than a place of defence. The intricate design and spacious gardens made it well worth the walk that I am adamant was still worth saving the 53p.
The sharp, tense, burning pain in my chest had finally subdued. It was at this point we reached Agra Station with three hours to wait for our delayed train. Despite this, the wait was pleasant as we enjoyed some delightful samosa chaat (savoury snack). All in all, well worth the visit!
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