Much obliged: A family affair in New Delhi #1

January 2019 - New Delhi, India

Family. This has been - and always will be - the most important part of my life and in Indian culture. We were overwhelmed by the generous hospitality given by my relatives living in New Delhi, India. My family’s driver kindly picked us up from the airport at 7am as we reached my family’s home, jet-lagged and a bit worse for wear. My always-jolly uncle stepped out of his daily yoga routine to welcome us lovingly. My thoughtful aunt served us some refreshing pomegranate juice before we retired for a long sleep.

Days were spent sightseeing and dining in places where it seemed to be the law to have the same Chinese and Indian food on the menu - no matter what the restaurant’s speciality was. In the evenings we sat with my family and ate divine home cooking from my aunt and the cooks and drank gin after whiskey after wine. The crumbly, soft texture of the scrambled paneer melted in my mouth while the dribble dangled, as I gazed longingly into the bowl, savouring each mouthful, in anticipation for the next helping of heaven. I really liked it, basically. Anyway, we talked about how mota (Hindi for fat) I apparently was when I last visited 10 years ago, but I swiftly corrected my uncle as he must’ve mistaken me for someone else...

The most beautiful sight in the Indian capital was by far the mesmerizing Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple opened in 2005. No phones or bags were allowed in the free-to-enter complex which comprised of mainly the exceptionally designed mandir (Hindu temple), educational and entertaining exhibitions and a food court. Despite the potential of a commercial feel, a calm and respectful atmosphere remained as it approached sunset. Colourful paintings and carved drawings told many stories within the third largest Hindu temple in the world. At the time of inauguration in 1995, the largest Hindu temple outside of India was the BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir in Neasden, London, which is also worth a visit for the stunning architecture. Both were built with the vision and blessings of His Holiness Pramukh Swami Maharaj, the fifth spiritual successor of the yogi Bhagwan Swaminarayan whose teachings brought a revival of several central Hindu practices. The aarti (prayer song) in front of the impressive golden statues was similar to the one I’ve heard at several ceremonies and brought back mixed memories.

Akshardam, Courtesy of Akshardam.com

For a mere ₹80 (Indian rupees - roughly 85p) each we experienced the thoroughly recommended Sahaj Anand Water Show after sunset. Water fountains, fire, lights, music, real-life actors, an awe-inspiring projection upon a grand building and a conversation between children and gods told the story of Kena Upanishad, involving the gods of the elements. Despite being in Hindi - most of which was even too difficult for my brain to translate - the essence of the show was captured wonderfully and it was a luxury not to have flashing cameras throughout.

Qutub Minar

My incredibly helpful cousin spent much of his time showing us the sights and was unprepared for the amount of walking we were intending on. We visited the ruined tombs and monuments of the Qutub Minar complex which featured a 72m high Afghan-style victory tower erected in 1193 of the same name and the technologically advanced Iron Pillar which hasn’t rusted over the past 1600 years. We also saw the impressive Humayun’s Tomb - a 16th-century resting place constructed for the Mughal Emperor - and Red Fort - which included a striking red 18m-high wall with decapitated bodies of prisoners built into the foundations for luck.

Despite my cousin‘s and Bex’s disinterest in art, I did not let this get me down and I marvelled at the five floors at the National Gallery of Art. It provided a great mix from some of the greatest Indian artists of the last century. An exhibition celebrating 150 years since Mahatma Gandhi’s birth gave us an intriguing insight into his leading of the nonviolent act of civil disobedience in 1930 known as The Salt March which saw the arrest of over 60,000 people, including Gandhi himself. Most of the sights we viewed saw hundreds of Indians queuing for hours to enter, but foreigners always had their own queue-free window - at ten times the price of about ₹500 (£5.35)! We then visited the street market Dilli Haat which had an array of materials and souvenirs (which we were not planning to haul around for four months) and an endless amount of stalls displaying very similarly-looking Chinese and Indian food...

The Lotus Temple

The Lotus Temple is a place for all faiths to come and be at one with peace. Despite its relatively simple and fairly small prayer hall, you’re able to gain a feeling of relaxation - for free - in what could be the only silent place in Delhi. The lotus design represents purity and is surrounded by pleasant clear blue pools of water.

Being my third visit to Delhi in my incredibly well-travelled life, I knew what I’d let myself in for; the hustle and bustle, the rabid dogs, the wandering holy cows, the crazy driving and the frequent stares. Bex felt that the city was exactly as she had imagined it would be but was also in constant shock. It’s difficult to come to terms with the vast contrasts in class as it is ever-present. From dancing children at red lights to - presumably sleeping - families on the roadside, the poverty in the county continues to sadden and amaze.