Me, Myself & Myanmar #11

February 2019 - Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)

The concept of driving in a straight line was too difficult for our taxi driver to comprehend, despite me showing him the route on a GPS map (apologies in advance for this rant). He received incorrect information at Yangon International Airport from a man who apparently knew our destination. We arrived at an incorrect hotel and three members of their staff were also unable to understand the concept of continuing to drive straight. This led to one of them phone-calling someone who then spoke to our driver at length who - I assume - explained - that he needed to drive straight; without turning. So, following the advice of five men, our ‘taxi’ driver eventually took us to our hostel just off clearly one of the main roads in Yangon. The first hour in Myanmar (also known as Burma) was truly a warning for how difficult communication could be for a man whose Burmese is not quite up-to-scratch.

Schwedagon Pagoda

Schwedagon Pagoda

Arguably our best 'breakfast-included' at a hostel came at Shwe Yo Vintage in Yangon's Chinatown. Each morning we had a different, light, refreshing combination of well-flavoured and pleasantly-spiced local noodles - as well as unlimited hot drinks and orange juice. The very kind staff were always smiling and gave helpful recommendations including visiting the bustling 19th Street. They were not mistaken as we found the buzzing Double Happiness Bar where cocktails - which used local spirits - were cheaper than beers at just K1000 (Burmese Kyat (50p!)) each. These were enjoyed alongside cheap and great-tasting snacks which included - most importantly - roasted cashew nuts.

Shwe Yo Vintage Hostel

The golden shimmer of the Shwedagon Pagoda - the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar - is noticeable from almost anywhere in the largest city in the country. Although covered in scaffolding and under repair, the tallest pagoda - at 326-feet - the gilded stupa (dome-shaped Buddhist shrine) still looked exceptional, as did the beautifully crafted surrounding complex of many temples, statues and stupas. It would’ve been well worth the cost at a pricey K10,000 (£5) each, but we may or may not have walked in without paying...

Kan Taw Mingalar Garden

The National Museum (K5,000 (£2.50)) had an impressive collection displaying the rich culture of a country with 135 different distinct ethnic groups grouped into eight 'major national ethnic races'. It was clear how important Buddhism and identity was and this was often conveyed through art with intricate sculptures, lavish theatre costumes and a vast range of musical instruments. More of an insight into the history and politics of the country would have made this a complete visit.

We strolled through beautiful and well-maintained green areas including the Kan Taw Mingalar Garden and around the Kandawgyi Lake before having a rooftop bar cocktail whilst overlooking the Shwedagon Pagoda at sunset. Having been tempted by the apparent rockiness of the trains, we ended our time in the former capital with a recommended ride around the city. Unfortunately, the train felt fairly calm and pleasant and I never felt like my life was ever going off the rails...