The Sound of Silence in Sri Lanka #5

January 2019 - Colombo & Kandy, Sri Lanka

I turned to Bex in our Uber 30 seconds after leaving the airport with a panic-stricken ghostly face. Had I gone deaf? Had my throat seized up? I feared my ears had blocked up entirely after numerous failed attempts to pop them back into normality. Surely I hadn’t inhaled so many fumes that I was no longer able to breathe? Do not despair though, I was not to worry. Surrounded by greenery, we cruised beside the Laccadive Sea, breathed in the fresh sea air and failed to hear a single horn beep. It was bliss. Welcome to Sri Lanka.

Nana's

After arriving at our small, friendly hostel in the capital city of Colombo, we ventured to the beach huts to visit the Lonely Planet-recommended Nana’s food shack. Confusingly, the only other four food shacks were also called Nana. We opted for the one with clear vegetarian options (the most southernly located one) and had delicious local delicacies including devilled vegetables, koththu (Sri Lankan roti) and a ginger beer at a great value of (Sri Lankan rupees) Rp. 250 (£1.20) each. We then continued to be ‘travelers’ and sat poolside by the majestic Biera Lake at the Seven Degrees North hotel bar and made full use of the happy hour. Some want to hike up the tallest mountains. Others want to swim with dolphins. I want to visit a happy hour in every country.

Biera Lake

Traveling by train in Sri Lanka was a clear must, but it seemed to be a difficult task. After much research we learnt that some are sold in advance and some are held for the day, so just get to the station in good time for your train. We arrived at Colombo Fort station an hour before our train and successfully bought two 2nd class tickets for the three-hour journey to Kandy at a snip for Rp. 250 (£1.20) each. A mute station worker greeted us on the busy platform and explained - with a huge, welcoming smile - where we needed to be and at what time our train was coming. He even continued to help - still always smiling - when he could see any confusion on our faces - a true delight (he’s not a guarantee on your journey).

Sri Lanka Railways

We were greeted at our hostel in Kandy by - who soon became known to us as - ‘Lovely Man’ and we were well looked after in our cosy home. The city’s most popular landmark is the Temple of the Tooth - famously known for holding a relic of the Buddha. Respect must be shown when entering so no large amounts of skin were allowed to be shown by anyone. We came prepared, covered up and entered. A travelling companion was turned away as his sarong (cloth) is used to sleep with and is seen as disrespectful to wear in a temple. He resentfully accepted and went in desperate search to purchase a replacement, only to return and be told that his companion’s sarong is now not acceptable either. Frustrated but undeterred they bought another one (at Rp 500 (£2.40) again) and finally entered the complex.

Temple of the Tooth

The confusion continued inside as we refused to accept that it cost a foreigner Rp. 1500 (£7.20) each to enter a temple (and three small museums). After much discussion we all decided to suck it up and pay. The museum about the national treasure Raja - the tusker elephant who particpated in the annual Esala procession (The Festival of the Tooth) for 50 years - was a pleasant - albeit saddening - addition. The temple was somewhat of a disappointment as the architecture was basic and the chamber holding the relic was only open at other times of the day during ceremonies. ‘All we want is some zen!’ We left, unfulfilled, and our companions left, also out of pocket a total of Rp. 5000 (£24), sarongs and all.