Me, Myself & Myanmar #11

February 2019 - Yangon, Myanmar (Burma)

The concept of driving in a straight line was too difficult for our taxi driver to comprehend, despite me showing him the route on a GPS map (apologies in advance for this rant). He received incorrect information at Yangon International Airport from a man who apparently knew our destination. We arrived at an incorrect hotel and three members of their staff were also unable to understand the concept of continuing to drive straight. This led to one of them phone-calling someone who then spoke to our driver at length who - I assume - explained - that he needed to drive straight; without turning. So, following the advice of five men, our ‘taxi’ driver eventually took us to our hostel just off clearly one of the main roads in Yangon. The first hour in Myanmar (also known as Burma) was truly a warning for how difficult communication could be for a man whose Burmese is not quite up-to-scratch.

Schwedagon Pagoda

Schwedagon Pagoda

Arguably our best 'breakfast-included' at a hostel came at Shwe Yo Vintage in Yangon's Chinatown. Each morning we had a different, light, refreshing combination of well-flavoured and pleasantly-spiced local noodles - as well as unlimited hot drinks and orange juice. The very kind staff were always smiling and gave helpful recommendations including visiting the bustling 19th Street. They were not mistaken as we found the buzzing Double Happiness Bar where cocktails - which used local spirits - were cheaper than beers at just K1000 (Burmese Kyat (50p!)) each. These were enjoyed alongside cheap and great-tasting snacks which included - most importantly - roasted cashew nuts.

Shwe Yo Vintage Hostel

The golden shimmer of the Shwedagon Pagoda - the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar - is noticeable from almost anywhere in the largest city in the country. Although covered in scaffolding and under repair, the tallest pagoda - at 326-feet - the gilded stupa (dome-shaped Buddhist shrine) still looked exceptional, as did the beautifully crafted surrounding complex of many temples, statues and stupas. It would’ve been well worth the cost at a pricey K10,000 (£5) each, but we may or may not have walked in without paying...

Kan Taw Mingalar Garden

The National Museum (K5,000 (£2.50)) had an impressive collection displaying the rich culture of a country with 135 different distinct ethnic groups grouped into eight 'major national ethnic races'. It was clear how important Buddhism and identity was and this was often conveyed through art with intricate sculptures, lavish theatre costumes and a vast range of musical instruments. More of an insight into the history and politics of the country would have made this a complete visit.

We strolled through beautiful and well-maintained green areas including the Kan Taw Mingalar Garden and around the Kandawgyi Lake before having a rooftop bar cocktail whilst overlooking the Shwedagon Pagoda at sunset. Having been tempted by the apparent rockiness of the trains, we ended our time in the former capital with a recommended ride around the city. Unfortunately, the train felt fairly calm and pleasant and I never felt like my life was ever going off the rails...

Siti of Stars #10

February 2019 - Taman Negara (National Park), Malaysia

The sensational views and tranquillity of the 2-3 hour boat across the Tembeling River made the journey to the north-east of Malaysia well worth the trip, before even stepping foot in the 130 million-year-old Taman Negara (Malay for National Park). It was formerly known as the King George V National Park until the country's independence on 31 August 1957 and entry has remained at just a mere RM 1 (18p) - and RM 5 (90p) for a camera - to visit this place of true natural beauty.

Tembeling River

We were given a wake-up call once we had completed our first four-hour trek to Bukit Terisek and realized we perhaps weren’t as fit as we first thought. The humidity of the jungle was overbearing but our survival despite the blood (leech bites), sweat and tears was proof that we had what it took in the most challenging of circumstances. We even somehow upped our game the next day and mightily fought our way to the great heights of Bukit Indah.

The much-anticipated world's longest canopy walkway was closed for maintenance due to safety reasons, much to our dismay. The 530m-long bridge is 40m above ground level and from our view it did, in fact, look a bit worse for wear.

Taman Negara

The night jungle walk - at a haggled rate of RM 25 (£4.65) - is highly recommended, but is all dependent on the guide given. The enthusiastic and comical Pizzan (great name) clearly loved his work and passionately walked us through the jungle, impressively pointing out the hard-to-spot creatures; including scorpions marvellously glowing in the UV light. The evening was complete when a large ‘winged-devil’ - as described by Bex - smacked into her chest, causing her to almost comically fall into the river.

Taman Negara

Whilst triumphantly returning down from our more impressive hike, Bex almost tripped over - what looked like at first - a dinosaur! After inspection, I dismissed this ridiculousness and came to the conclusion that it was a massive lizard - by far the biggest ever seen by a man (specifically, by this man). We watched from afar as it attempted to dig through holes - presumably for food - but I knew it’s game, and that food was not going to be me today. A wild boar soon happily trotted across our path, as well as a small, black and red snake which disappeared instantly. And I do mean a real snake, not like the apparent serpent-looking curvy line of ants seen by Bex...

Taman Negara

Siti - or ‘The Lovely Woman’ - welcomed us with open arms and became the latest addition to our growing family of lovely hosts. The small, friendly and sociable hostel was the ideal home for us in the village of Kuala Tehan, just a RM 1 and 30-second boat ride away from the National Park itself. Unfortunately, a poor range of restaurants, few social spaces and very little alcohol on sale made evenings feel very limited. Despite this, the people, nature, landscapes and journey meant the adventure was worth every Ringit.

Rock the Kasbah #9

February 2019 - Langkawi, Malaysia

"This is Crocodile Cave. I don’t know why it’s called that; there are no crocodiles." At Eagle Place, eagles glided, surrounding the above; at the Bat Cave, thousands of bats leered at the shining torches in their eyes; but at Crocodile Cave, things did not follow suit. Our Mangrove Tour boat driver was blunt and honest and perhaps wanted to make it clear that he was not a guide. Not long after, a monkey jumped on board in search of food and instead decided to throw crumbs at Bex which glued to her greasily sun-creamed face. He joined me in laughter and scuttled off. This completed a thoroughly enjoyable ride around the Kilim Geoforest Park in Langkawi, an archipelago of 99 Malaysian islands.

Mangrove Tour

Travelling is no picnic, so we thought it wise to treat ourselves to a place famed for its relaxing lifestyle and soft-flowing beaches. The hot sand was welcomed between my toes as we worked on our tan (yes, both of us) during the day and later tasted the sweet and stodgy delicacies of the night market. 

Pantai Cenang 

 We watched the mesmerizing sunset over the sea at the recommended Nest rooftop bar in a tourist-heavy strip in Pantai Cenang. Due to the costly price of an alcohol license in the duty-free island, we were charged RM 45 (£8.40) for a pitcher of mocktail (without alcohol) and was given a free litre bottle of rum to go with it! The remains of the bottle are kept behind the bar for three months with our name on it for future consumption. And yes, we did return (if you're visiting, get in touch for the remains!)

Nest rooftop bar

The vegetarian and vegan Indiana Cafe next to the well-presented and affordable Rembulan Langkawi hostel had great tasting options in an area which lacked in variety for my tastebuds. The odd porthole-like windows in our room allowing you to view from the outside were a somewhat disturbing feature, however. The spacious and well-designed 20-bed dorm in the Kasbah hostel felt strangely cosy and private with individual mosquito nets covering the one-tier beds. Accompanied by an enjoyable cocktail happy hour and a delicious vegetarian burger and nachos meant our stay in the Kasbah was far from rocky.

SkyCab

The SkyCab is home to the - what seemed at first - costly Langkawi Cable Car (RM 50 (£9.30)). After a long wait, we eventually made our way up and enjoyed the island view from the SkyBridge walkway. Other attractions included in this mini 'theme park' were the SkyDome and the SkyRex; a simulated ‘journey gone wrong’ in a world of dinosaurs. The surprising highlight was the interactive 3D Art Langkawi which depicted famous landmarks, moments in history and many entertaining images using large spaces and vibrant colours.

3D Art Langkawi

3D Art Langkawi